Introduction

In this lesson, you will learn the skills necessary for passing a lead certification test at an indoor climbing gym.

Even though the certification tests will vary from one climbing gym to another, the following skills always need to be demonstrated:

1. A proper clipping technique (no Z-clipping or back-clipping)

2. Using advanced climbing commands or communication

3. Using a belay device properly.

4. Using a proper belay technique.

Difficult Climbing for Skilled Climbers

What's different from top-rope climbing?

The main difference between lead climbing and top-rope climbing is that the rope is not already at the top of the climb in lead climbing. Therefore, the rope needs to be carried up with the climber, and clipped into anchor points along the way.

Another big difference is the belay technique used in lead climbing. For top-rope climbing, the belayer is only pulling the excess rope through the belay device to minimize slack if a fall should occur. However, for lead climbing, the belayer must feed excess rope to the climber and pull excess rope, all through the belay device.

Why is lead climbing more difficult than top-rope climbing?

Since the climber needs to carry the rope and clip it into specific anchors, the climber is doing 2 things different than top-rope climbing:

1. Carrying more weight than usual.

2. Using more energy to hang in place with one arm while clipping with the other.

Therefore, the climber is using more energy to climb the same route.

Boulders 'n Belays

Lead Test Training