Knots
The most common knot used in climbing is the figure 8 knot, Other common knots, like the Bowline, can also be used effectively. However, most certification tests will require the climber to use a figure 8 knot.
The videos below will demonstrate the proper way to tie the knot. Just click on the images to play the videos. If you cannot see the videos, use the links on the left to update your player or to view the video with another media player.
Figure 8 Knot: Step-by-Step
| 1. Stretch a piece of rope from one hand to the other. This will leave enough rope to complete the knot. DO NOT feed the rope through any part of your harness yet. |
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| 2. Make a loop near one hand. Wrap the tail of the rope around the loop once. |
| 3. Drop the tail through the loop and let it hang loose. This will give you the beginning of your figure 8 knot. Practice these first 3 steps several times, because they are the hardest to do consistently. |
| 4. Feed the tail of the rope through the belay loop in your harness. This loop is located on the front of your harness. Some harnesses have two loops; feed the tail through both loops. Pull the beginning of the knot close to the harness so you can use most of the rope to finish the knot. Tying the knot close to the harness also prevents the knot from hitting the climber in the face during a fall. |
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| 5. Use the tail of the rope to retrace the beginning of the knot. Your path will be the opposite of the starting pattern. If you need to enlarge the knot a little so you can see your path, go ahead. You will eventually tighten the knot again. |
| 6. Pull the knot tight. Your finished figure 8 knot should look small and even, so adjust any of the rope pairs as needed. Often, you will need to fold one piece of rope over another to get the knot "clean." |
| 7. Finish with a double-fisherman's knot. Even though the figure-8 knot is designed to get tighter during a fall, it is still safe climbing practice to add a finishing knot to make sure the knot does not come undone. This is also a good way of keeping the excess rope out of the way. |
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